Double Spring Gap Shelter to Icewater Springs Shelter

Appalachian Trail, 13.8 miles

It wasn't exactly great timing, the fact that our longest hiking day came on the heels of our night with the bear. We had gotten maybe half the sleep that we normally would've. But our itinerary had no wiggle room, so we were up and out at dawn this morning, our first hurdle being Clingmans Dome, the highest point on the entire Appalachian Trail. In this photo, we're about a quarter of a mile from the summit, and I'm trying to negotiate a steep and rocky part of the ascent.

For breakfast, in addition to my usual protein bar, I had my most prized menu item: a cup of applesauce. It was a good day to carb-load, since the climb ahead was hard. Plus, better to consume the heaviest item in my food bag on a hard day than to carry it!

The trees at this elevation show a lot of signs of the harsh elements. A lot of them look like this stick of a pine tree -- ravaged by extreme heat in summer and extreme cold and wind in winter.

We summitted Clingmans Dome at 8:45 a.m. and it was such a rush. It really redeemed the disappointment I had felt over our previous AT trip fizzling. The morning was clear and beautiful, and there was not a soul at the observation tower. I was really glad for a moment of peace up there, because sometimes that tower can get really clogged with tourists. This is one of the few points in the park where the trail intersects with civilization. An access road allows tourists to drive within half a mile of the summit, and then they can walk a paved path all the way to the top.

At the top of the observation tower I finally got a strong enough signal to phone home, though it took several attempts. It was so sweet to hear Jay's voice. No matter that he was in the middle of an interview at work and, once off the phone, probably had to explain to the poor interviewee what a kook he has for a wife! We couldn't talk long, but long enough for me to find out that Joe's little virus had run its course and that he and Maria were doing fine. I miss those three terribly.

We are at Icewater Springs now, with several other hikers, having made it through the longest day of our hike. All of us had to hike the last couple miles (which were very rugged) in the rain. I am filthy and sweaty. Everyone stinks but no one really cares. It's remarkable the way you lose your sense of decorum out here. Case in point: Tonight there were several lengths of rope strung across the shelter, with everyone's stinky, sweaty underwear and socks hanging from them. Mine were right up there along with everyone else's.