02 June 2006

Tricorner Knob Shelter to Cosby Knob Shelter

Appalachian Trail, 7.7 miles

It was very cold here last night; I slept in two pairs of pants, my fleece, and my raincoat. I could see my breath this morning. The journal inside the shelter indicated that there had been two feet of snow here just a couple weeks ago. I've read that this is the coldest area of Great Smoky Mountain National Park. Mt. Guyot, which we summitted this morning, is only 20 feet lower than Clingmans Dome, but because of its position, it gets more exposure to extreme weather.

The bruised part of my arm is killing me. It is turning all different shades of purple and black. Nice.

I was thankful for a short mileage day today, especially because it rained a lot again throughout the day. We hiked through some beautiful wild rhododendron thickets on the way to Cosby Knob. We arrived at the shelter around lunchtime and I enjoyed a delicious two-hour nap plus ample time to read and relax. My feet appreciated the break.

And thank goodness we got here early enough to stake out a little corner of the shelter, because it is Friday night, and a slew of weekend-warrior type men showed up about 5 p.m. after hiking in from Davenport Gap. They actually brought with them a huge hunk of steak and cooked it in the shelter since it was raining cats and dogs outside. The sight of someone pulling raw meat out of a stinky backpack and then cooking it up about four feet from my head was enough to turn my stomach. And I couldn't quit thinking about how these men had just infused the entire shelter with enough food odors to attract probably every bear north of Clingmans Dome.

It kept raining all evening, and more hikers kept coming, some of them thru-hikers who were wrapping up a 20-mile day. You can't really say "oh sorry, there's really no more room" when the rain is coming down in torrents, so we just kept squeezing in. All told, I believe we currently have 18 people crammed into a shelter that is supposed to accommodate 12. It is quite uncomfortable. We're going to blow out of here as early as possible tomorrow morning.

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